Chile con Queso: A Stovetop Queso Dip Worth Making

The orange cheese dip sold in jars has done real queso a disservice. Made properly, queso is silky, sharp and spicy, and it comes together on the stovetop in under twenty minutes. The secret is a little sodium citrate-free stabiliser — in the form of evaporated milk or a cornflour slurry — and good melting cheese.

Why it splits and how to stop it

Melted cheese splits for the same reason it splits in a sauce: fat and water separating. Queso avoids this by using a small amount of starch or evaporated milk to hold the emulsion together. Skip this step and you get grease floating on top within minutes.

Ingredients

• 250 g melting cheese, grated — a mix of mild Cheddar, Monterey Jack or Oaxaca
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 jalapeño or 2–3 roasted poblano chillies, chopped
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon plain flour
• 120 ml evaporated milk (or whole milk with a cornflour slurry)
• 1 tomato, finely chopped and drained
• Salt, cumin, a squeeze of lime
• Fresh coriander to finish

Method

1. Gently cook the onion, chilli and garlic in the butter until soft, not browned.
2. Sprinkle over the flour and cook for one minute.
3. Pour in the evaporated milk, whisking, and heat until it thickens slightly.
4. Lower the heat and add the grated cheese in handfuls, stirring until each melts.
5. Fold in the drained tomato, season with cumin, salt and lime, and finish with coriander.
6. Serve warm with tortilla chips, or keep warm in a small slow cooker.

Chillies: heat and flavour

• Jalapeño — fresh, grassy heat
• Poblano — roasted, smoky, mild
• Chipotle in adobo — deep smoke and warmth
• Serrano — sharper, hotter than jalapeño

Roast and peel poblanos if you can; the smoky flavour is what separates a great queso from an average one.

Serving and reheating

Queso is best fresh and warm. If it thickens, add a splash of milk and stir over low heat. Avoid boiling, which will break the emulsion you worked to build. It also works as a topping for nachos, fries or a baked potato.

Queso belongs on any grazing spread. For more melted inspiration, see our cheese sauce guide.