Cauliflower Cheese Bake

Cauliflower cheese is one of those dishes that is either outstanding or woeful, and the difference is almost entirely in the sauce. A bland, thin sauce over watery cauliflower is the woeful version. A well-seasoned sauce, properly cooked cauliflower and a crunchy top is the outstanding one — and it is easy.

The two things that go wrong

• Watery cauliflower — if it is boiled and not drained well, it releases water into the dish. Roast it instead, or drain it thoroughly and pat it dry.
• Bland sauce — cheese sauce needs salt, mustard and a little nutmeg. Under-seasoned, it tastes of nothing.

Ingredients (serves 4 as a side)

• 1 large cauliflower, cut into florets
• 50 g butter
• 50 g plain flour
• 600 ml whole milk, warm
• 1 teaspoon English or Dijon mustard
• 150 g mature Cheddar or Gruyère, grated
• 50 g Parmesan, grated
• Salt, white pepper, nutmeg
• Optional topping: 50 g breadcrumbs mixed with 25 g melted butter

Method

1. Roast the cauliflower at 200°C / 400°F with a little oil for 20–25 minutes until tender and browned at the edges — or steam it until just tender, then drain very well.
2. Make the sauce: melt the butter, whisk in the flour, cook a minute, then add the warm milk gradually, whisking to a smooth, thick sauce.
3. Season with mustard, salt, white pepper and nutmeg.
4. Off the heat, stir in the Cheddar and half the Parmesan.
5. Fold in the cauliflower and tip into a baking dish.
6. Top with the remaining Parmesan and the breadcrumb topping if using.
7. Bake at 190°C / 375°F for 20–25 minutes, until browned and bubbling.

Roast vs steam

Roasting gives the best flavour — the edges caramelise and add sweetness — and it avoids the water problem entirely. Steaming is faster and lighter but requires thorough draining. Boiling is the weakest option; if you boil, drain for several minutes and pat dry.

Make it a main

Add cooked pasta, ham or a tin of drained beans to the dish and it becomes a full meal. Serve with crusty bread to mop up the sauce.

See our cheese sauce guide for the technique and our Cheddar guide for choosing the cheese.